Wednesday, January 13, 2010
Maialino NYC
when prosecco would brace, muscato unlace and fransciacorta overwhelm, where could one turn to celebrate chef's newest space a week after its opening in early December? with gift-giving budget in mind, a spritzy 07 Costantini Frascati 'villa dei preti' showcased fatty, pistacchio-laden mortadella whose delicate emulsion and creamy bits of fat metlingly dissapeared, smokey proscuitto sheen with chestnut-fatted gloss, tender yet crispy artichoke carciofini fritti, exquisite wedges of crema di lopez, perfectly balanced, nutty la tur, piping hot, spicy guanciale, musky scallop crudo, and, oh, the animelle d'abbecchio...sweetbreads whose superbly preserved luxe texture was especially well-executed...
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